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TravelBlog

Thursday, April 14, 2005

Today is Tamil New Year and I have a day off with no plans. There is no yoga today, so I go running in the park. Then breakfast and newspaper. Even though it's only eight, sun is already merciless. I decide that I wouldn't mind spending the day at home reading. First newspaper. Visit of Chinese prime minister is still the hottest topic. Reports, columns, interviews. Word “historic” is used very often. “Asian century” is also popular. And not without reason. Two countries with more than a third of world total population and the fastest growing economies may as well be foundation of next “super-block”. Another important event is a new bus line in Kashmir that crosses “Line of Control” between Pakistani and India controlled parts of the state. There is also large dose of optimism following this event, although, with a decent dose of restraint. It seems that both sides are honestly willing to start moving toward a peaceful solution, but steps are very small and cautious. In general, Indian newspaper are fairly positive at the moment and that is a nice change. News from Iraq are buried in the international section somewhere in the middle. On my way to that section I find that there is a show of traditional dance tonight at Chennai Music Academy. That could be interesting.

After the paper I switch to “Autobiography of a Yogi”, by Paramahansa Yogananda. It is well written and interesting, but full of miracles, and I am not sure how to take that. He sounds like an honest man in search for the truth and I want to believe him. On the other hand, I can not accept materialization of talismans, people not showing up on photographs or levitation. So he is either an honest but delusional man, or a liar. Not much to choose from, really. I wonder why people need miracles so much. Isn't life itself enough of a miracle?

After a short nap, I get up, shave (yes, no more barbers for me,) and leave. Music Academy is just across the street from the hotel in which I stayed two years ago. My favorite restaurant from that time is over there too and I head there first to get something to eat. Unfortunately, they didn't open yet, so I go to the hotel and have a meal there.

I arrive at the parking lot in front of Music Academy just in time when some shirtless elders were unloading from their van. They were being welcomed as somebody very important. I get in the half-empty theater and get a seat close to the stage. As soon as I sit down, the shirtless elders come to the stage, followed by some important shirted elders. One of the shirtless guys is obviously super important. And well overweight. As he made himself comfortable in a throne-like chair that was waiting for him at one end of the stage, everybody else started bowing to him. At the center of the stage there is a line-up of handful of chairs and one small coffee table. I am obviously in for more than just a dance. The important shirted elders and a woman in an elaborate dancing costume take seats in the chairs and the elders start giving speeches. They speak Tamil and I have no clue what they are saying. Last speech is given by the guy in the throne-like chair and it is long. The curtain is down, then up and the show starts. The dance is all about a childless couple who was ordered by a god to go to a pilgrimage, presumably in order to seize being childless. First the lady that was hanging out with the important men comes out on the stage a few times, walks around moving with the rhythm of the music and leaves. Then she is joined by another lady and they dance together for a while. After that there is a group of young dancers performing some more elaborate choreography. I don't understand the story or the language of the dance, but I enjoy watching it. The music is also very interesting, with many dramatic changes in rhythm. Still, I left before the show ended.




Traditional ballet

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