Today is one of the most anticipated events of the tour: a 24-hour houseboat cruise of the Kerala backwaters. The backwaters is the name for a system of lakes and canals that stretches along one part of Kerala's coast. Its population consists mostly of farmers and fishermen who built their houses on narrow stretches of land that separate adjacent bodies of water. In addition to its role in fishing, prawn farming and irrigation, the water is pretty much the only mode of transportation and it is used for most of the household needs. Even though the area is not densely populated, its infrastructure is on a respectable level: water and sewage, electrical power, schools, public transportation, temples and churches.

The navigator.

The rain is pouring as we climb onto the boat. Two crew members and a cook welcome us and show us around. Our living space consists of two bedrooms with bathrooms and a large covered deck, where we will be spending most of our time. The boat is made out of wood in a traditional way, and we like its natural and authentic feel (even though there is not much authentic here, at least not to Kerala: this kind of boats has its origin in Kashmir.) The navigator sits on the bow and the other guy, who controls a small engine, is on the stern. Since there is no line of sight between them, they communicate through a little bell hung on a string that they stretched along one side of the boat. We start the cruise and the cook serves coffee as we are navigating between rows of houses. It is early afternoon, just after lunch time and women are doing dishes in the canal. One is washing her hair and a little farther a fisherman is pulling out his net. It is raining and a guy in a small boat is holding his umbrella between his chin and his shoulder while paddling. It feels as if we are in a different world.

Canal as a kitchen sink.


Or a bathroom.


A convertible in monsoon season.


Fisherman.

It is time for our lunch too. Our cook turns out to be a master of Kerala cuisine: fried fish, cabbage with coconut, ladyfingers, some pickled beet and mandatory, at least in the south India, rice and sambar. Everything is delicious, as well as eye pleasing. We notice that coconut is much more popular than in Tamil Nadu, which gives dishes a sweet flavor. They are are also less generous with chili powder, our taste buds get a welcome break. The only thing one can possibly do after a lunch like this is to take afternoon siesta and that is exactly what we do.

Our cook just served lunch.

In the evening we find a spot on a side of a large lake in one of the less populated areas, where we would spend the night. The choir of frogs from the adjacent paddy field just started their concert. Soon after another house boat arrives and a Dutch family from it comes over thinking that we are a Dutch group they met a few days ago. We are obviously not, but we still spend an hour or two in conversation with them. They tell us how they got tired of their summers in Italy and a few years ago decided to start spending their vacation time in more distant parts of the world. So far they love it. He teaches Latin and Greek to, what he jokingly calls, the most expensive class in the world. His subject is not a part of mandatory curriculum and he currently has only one student.

The rest of the evening passes rather uneventfully and we go to bed early.